Trying to capture the essence of Mongolia in photos and words is like trying to fit the whole sky into a jar. It's impossible. You can really only gather beautiful bits and pieces of it.
When I told my family and friends that I was traveling to Mongolia, nearly all of them said: "Mongolia? Why there?" or "I don't even know what's in Mongolia!". Truthfully, neither did I. I completely underestimated the beauty that would soon overcome and embrace me. I knew of the Gobi desert sand dunes but I didn't know the way it would sing and dance when the wind blew against it and the sun warmed its waves. I knew it's lands would be vast but I didn't know they would be a cascade of different colors and textures from mile to mile. I knew of the people but I didn't know the way their smiles reach all the way to their eyes or the pride they would have in showing you the land and traditions of their country. I feel nothing but gratitude at having had the opportunity to explore there with the people that I did. I often find all my travels to be life altering but Mongolia hit me in my core.
Personally, this year started off quite dark for me but Mongolia brought me back to a part of me that I was missing. Its' sun filled the dark spots that were on my heart like a warm embrace. I felt grounded again. I felt pure blissful joy again. I felt the fire in my soul burning for my life again. Mongolia has a piece of me, a shell of my former self that I left behind. And now, I have a piece of Mongolia with me, a part of my core that will always feel as warm as the sun in the sand dunes. I long for the day when I can return but until then, I will cherish the moments that I could fit into my jar.
One of the things we learned about from our guide Ariunaa is the Өндөр таван, translated as the "High Five" for the five colors of Mongolia. Each color has its own symbolism and upon reflecting on my photos, there is a reflection of these colors in each of them.
White: Represents purity, happiness, and good fortune. It is associated with milk and dairy products, which are important in Mongolian culture and diet.
Yellow: Represents the sun and eternity. It is also associated with Buddhism, which has a significant influence on Mongolian culture and spirituality.
Green: Represents the earth, being in tune with nature. It is the color of inner peace and is only used in religious rituals.
Blue: Represents the eternal sky and the spiritual realm. It symbolizes peace, tranquility, and the connection to the vast open skies of Mongolia.
Red: Stands for fire, energy, and power. It represents strength and the vitality of the Mongolian people.
Another piece of Mongolian culture and history I learned while riding in the car with Anu was the legend of Princess Khutulun.
Khutulun was a renowned Mongolian noblewoman and warrior who lived during the 13th century. She was the great-great-granddaughter of Genghis Khan and the daughter of Kaidu, a powerful Mongol ruler and cousin of Kublai Khan. Growing up as the youngest with 14 older brothers, Khutulun grew up receiving the same Mongol warrior training as her brothers. She learned how to ride a horse, shoot a bow, wrestle, sword fight, punch, tie knots, milk a yak and make fires. She fought and lead armies alongside her father and brothers and was a legend on the battlefield.
When it came time for marriage, Khutulun declared a public competition for her hand in marriage. She would marry the man that could defeat her in a wrestling competition. Hundreds of men tried and only walked away with broken bones and a shattered ego. Khutulun did eventually marry but it was a marriage by her choice, for love.
Khutulun became a symbol of strength and independence in Mongolian history and culture. Her father, Kaidu even tried to appoint her as his successor before he died. She declined but instead she made a deal with one of her brothers to let her command their army on the battlefield. Khutulun didn't have any desire for the palace life – she wanted combat, like a true badass.
I thought of Princess Khutulun a lot throughout my trip. I felt connected to her and her story. Her name actually means, "Bright Moon". While we were in Mongolia, it was a New Moon, which felt extremely fitting because the new moon is known as a time to initiate new beginnings. When the new moon occurs, it not only begins a new cycle but also ends the phase that came before. Here I was in Mongolia, leaving the shell of me behind to start a new cycle, stepping into a new beginning with the spirit of Khutulun pushing me forward.
This was only further validated when we were shooting in the dunes under the stars. I was feeling frustrated and unsure of myself. I was nearly seconds from giving up when one of the drivers actually flashed on their high beams to drive someone home and the dunes lit up white in front of me. My jaw dropped to the sand. It literally looked like moonlight casting it's glow across the sand! This was the shot I had dreamed of capturing. It felt like a sign from the universe. With a little finagling to set up the composition I wanted in the dark and timing it perfectly so as not to disturb the others shooting the night sky, I got my shot. Little did I know, there was a shooting star in the frame as well. Pinch me, because that felt like a sign from Khutulun herself.
There was something so whimsical about Mongolia. It could be the amount of untouched beauty or solitude of silence at night in the desert, or perhaps it's the rich tapestry of history and tradition that seems to breathe through the vast, open landscapes.
My favorite part though was truly the people I connected with on this trip. Throughout the trip, we were shuffled around in cars so that we could change up who we were driving along with. Unintentionally, I was placed in car #7 with our driver Baatar for 8 days of the 10 day trek. I couldn't be happier about it because on day 1, I jokingly told him in Mongolian (with the help of Ariunna) that I loved him and I never wanted to switch cars! He laughed and called his wife! She spoke English and we had a great conversation in the car about their family and where they live. I think one of my favorite parts of riding with him was the connection we were able to form even with a language barrier. We laughed and cheered trying to pass the other drivers. We jammed to his Mongolian folk songs and EDM playlist so hard that one day we got lost from the other drivers. We shared sour gummies and coke zeros to stay awake. With Anu's help, he told me stories of growing up in Mongolia. How he learned to sing from his father who was also a driver because there was no radio in his car. And how he wants a bigger future for his kids so his son was currently studying in Japan. He even wants to bring his family to New Jersey so we can share a pizza together!
One of my favorite moments though is when he shared his snuff bottle with me while we were in the car waiting out a storm. Snuff is a form of powdered tobacco meant for inhaling through the nose. Snuff bottles are an integral part of Mongolian social etiquette and culture. Exchanging snuff bottles is a common greeting practice, symbolizing respect and friendship.
Mongolian snuff bottles are crafted from a variety of materials, including jade, agate, amber, coral, and glass. The bottles are often intricately carved and decorated, showcasing different symbolisms of the family they belong too. They are passed down from generation to generation. Owning a finely crafted snuff bottle is also a status symbol. The quality and material of the snuff bottle reflects the owner’s social standing and wealth. Exchanging snuff bottles is more than a mere gesture; it is a ritual that fosters social bonds. The act of sharing snuff is a way to show hospitality and build relationships.
Baatar and Anu showed me how offering a snuff bottle with the right hand symbolizes respect and honor towards the recipient. It is a gesture that shows mindfulness and adherence to cultural norms. You must also hand it back open, as a sign of accepting the warm welcome. I was touched that Baatar would share such a huge piece of his culture and family with me. I could see the pride in his eyes as he talked about it. As we were shooting portraits with him later, I asked him if he would be willing to take it out for me to photograph him with it. He was thrilled to have those photos. I hope I could give him something to cherish in return for the kindness he showed me.
Every time I try to wrap up and summarize Mongolia, I get instant writers block. I think it's my brains way of telling me that this is to be continued. This won't be the last time I experience it. I will be back and there will be another jar to share! Until that day comes, I hope these images can bring you even a small sense of the joy and peace that Mongolia gave to me. That is why I do what I do. This is why I take photographs.
Одоохондоо баяртай !
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